The New York Times Guide to Cooking Sourdough

The New York Times Approach to Sourdough

The New York Times has long treated sourdough as both a culinary project and a subject of rigorous testing. Its cooking coverage frames the process as approachable but exacting: a recipe that rewards patience, precise measurements, and attention to the dough's behavior rather than the clock. The NYT's method balances the chemistry of fermentation with the practical realities of home kitchens, offering a path from a jar of starter to a loaf with a crisp crust and an open crumb.

Building and Maintaining a Starter

The NYT's baking coverage treats the starter as the foundation of everything. A basic routine involves discarding a portion of the existing culture, then feeding it with equal parts flour and water by weight. The publication emphasizes consistency in timing and temperature, noting that a starter kept at room temperature needs daily attention, while one stored in the refrigerator can be fed weekly. Key signs of a healthy starter include a predictable rise and fall after feeding, a pleasant tangy aroma, and plenty of bubbles. The NYT's writers have documented how different flours and hydration levels shift the starter's activity, encouraging bakers to observe their own culture closely.

Starter Troubleshooting

• Hooch formation: A layer of liquid on top signals hunger; stir it in or pour it off before feeding.
• Slow rise: Often a temperature issue — warmer spots around 75°F to 78°F accelerate fermentation.
• Foul smell: An acetone or nail-polish-remover odor suggests the starter needs feeding or dilution.

Mixing, Autolyse, and Shaping

The NYT's recipes typically begin with an autolyse, a rest period after combining flour and water before adding salt and starter. This step hydrates the flour and begins gluten development without the interference of salt. Once the starter and salt are incorporated, the dough undergoes a series of stretch-and-folds at intervals rather than a long, hands-on knead. The publication highlights how these gentle folds build strength in the dough, making it easier to shape and giving the final loaf better oven spring.

Shaping and Proofing

Shaping is treated as a deliberate step: the dough is预formed into a round, rested, then shaped tightly to create surface tension. The NYT's guides describe both bench resting and final proofing in a banneton, and they note that the dough is ready when it springs back slowly from a gentle poke. The publication has explored both room-temperature proofing and cold retardation in the refrigerator, explaining how each affects flavor and scheduling.

Baking and Scoring

The NYT's baking method relies on a Dutch oven or a baking steel to replicate the steamy environment of a professional oven. The dough is scored just before it goes in, a cut that controls where the loaf expands. Baking begins with the lid on to trap steam, then finishes uncovered so the crust can crisp. The publication provides specific guidance on oven temperatures — often starting at 450°F or 500°F — and on internal doneness, typically around 205°F to 210°F for a well-baked loaf.

Common Pitfalls the NYT Flags

The NYT's sourdough coverage has identified a handful of recurring issues. Dough that feels slack and sticky early on often improves with additional folds rather than more flour. Over-proofing leads to a flat loaf with a dense crumb, while under-proofing results in poor oven spring and a tight interior. The publication also warns against underbaking: a loaf that looks done on the outside may still be gummy inside, and it recommends using an instant-read thermometer to check the internal temperature.

The NYT's approach to sourdough reflects a broader philosophy seen across its cooking coverage: respect for ingredients, attention to process, and a willingness to let the dough guide the baker. By following the steps the publication outlines — from maintaining a lively starter to scoring and baking with confidence — home cooks can produce loaves that align with the NYT's tested standards.